Okay I called JVC for this KD-S13 because the details here weren't very specific.
You press and hold SEL (select) for two seconds until the MENU comes up.
Let go of SEL.
Press the left and right arrows on the side of the radio, where you normally change the station or skip tracks.
There's all sorts of different menus, including Hour and Minute to change time (which is lame you have to confirm hour/minute, then go back to hour/minute to do both) as well as the annoying DEMO function. Just turn the knob to the left to turn it off while you are in the menu.
For each function you change to what you want, you press SEL again to set it.
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