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Homean odd problem in which the speakers cut out until i turn up the volume. i have an old (how old, i am not sure) fisher "studio-standard" stereo receiver/amplifier, and it has a weird problem: sometimes the speakers cut out, leaving an ugly, crackling noise. now, here's where it gets weird...when i turn up the volume, it "fixes" itself, and i can hear the music again. this happens sometimes to both speakers, but usually just the right one. i've tried switching inputs, and switching the speaker inputs but nothing seems to be working. i'm trying to figure out if there's just a short somewhere, but i'm really curious, because it's almost as though there's crud in the way of the signal, but when i turn it up, the signal pushes the crud out of the way and it plays normally. but that makes no sense! please, help, it would be appreciated.
9 comments
I have a Studio Standard Ca-58 reciever and mine does the same thing. I think in mine it is the Balance slide that is bad. maybe the same w/you I have a fisher that i had the same problem with the right channel blowing a fuse. i blew three fuses and then i but aluminum foil around the fuse and havnt blown it since, and the amp is pushing my speakers full blast just fine. I have a stereo fisher amplifier set. I am looking for the adaptor piece that connects to the wires in the back of the cassette deck and radio. I have a picture but can not send without an e mail address. I have a stereo fisher amplifier set. I am looking for the adaptor piece that connects to the wires in the back of the cassette deck and radio. I have a picture but can not send without an e mail address. I had a very similar problem, if this is a digital model (no volume knob) it sounds like the powersupply feeding the amp circuit, eventually it will fail and blow a fuse, on my model i could get it powered back on by unplugging the power connector to the core amplifier board, of course there was no sound lol, but it proved that the short was in the power circuit of the amp, the model i had was a nice system , but i eventually just trashed it, it had no sentimental value like some of my other electronics. if you want to repair it (assuming it is the same type as mine was) you will have to refurbish the voltage regulation circuit for the amp channels, damn high voltage circuits are almost always what causes these types of systems to fail, how many old tv's can you remember loosing picture and sound just to hear a click every time you press power lol and then hunting down a pathetic chip that is only worth like a buck and paying 50+ for it. I have a Fisher Studio Stereo System Fisher amp, cassette,turntable the right channel (speakers would usually cut out until i also would give a quick snap to the volume to get it to kick back on. well it finally stopped working all together .I paid 899.00 back in 1980 for this system. Its obviosly not worth fixing so i opened it up and found like a 1 amp fuse blown, i replaced it and it blew again. i took it to a tv repair place and he gave me the diode and parts line that it will cost 150.00 to fix,it has something to do with the power feed to the right channel. you will see it will eventually blow out altogether. i just came across yor problem now and noticed it was posted in September so if you had any other solutions let me nkow............. thanks Ernie Eteamster@aol.com I think you have leaky out put Transistors or IC's depending on the model. There is some short term cure for it. If you still have problems,let me know I will explain the process. When you say "old" it depends on just how! I agree with what Tasos states that it could well be the actual control (if a rotary type) requiring replacement, or the much easier and commonly done thing of giving it a good squirt of cleaner / lubricant, like for example WD40. If it is the old rotary type, give a quick blast of the WD40 into the gap on the side of the covering can where the leads come from the solder pins, if you do this properly it should last for another few years. The problem can of course be caused by other things, and if it isn't the actual control itself it definitely suggests a bad connection somewhere, rather than a component fault. well it looks like the volume potensiometer is failing to me... |
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