Thanks so much Tracy and Eric for the schematics and guide. It worked perfectly. I ordered two 150s to replace the 110s ($21 with shipping) and bought a "5 piece basic soldering kit" from Radioshack for 7.99, some super thin 60/40 rosin solder and some desoldering braid. I have never soldered before this and I was able to do a clean job in about an hour. I suggest using desoldering braid (also called desoldering wick) for people who are new to the desoldering process as it was almost foolproof, very inexpensive (like $3) and requires no clean up. The only thing that confused me in the beginning was how to get the main Convergence board out from underneath the black plactic clips without breaking it (4 on one side and 1 on the other I believe). The trick is to pull all 4 clips back at once, lift up, and then pull the board horizontally out of place. I was a little afraid to do this in the beginning because the board seems fragile (so much weight with the 2 heatsinks and large components on top on such a thin board) but I was careful and it was no problem. My only question: now that the tv picture looks normal again with no crazy wavy red lines, it doesn't seem to be properly aligned. I have all perfectly white crosses on the 9 point convergence test, yet the picture seems a little sharp and jagged and maybe a hint overlapped (seen when looking at pure white lettering over black background in the beginning of a movie). Is there a more accurate convergence test I could do? Can I get rid of Velocity Scan Modulation and if so would the sharpness of the picture go away? I have ps2 hooked up through component cables and progressive scan enabled in the menu of compatible games and the picture still looks worse to me than a sdtv. Don't know what I'm doing wrong. Any help would still be appreciated.

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